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Stories by Phil Saviano
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Mexican Folk Art in Oaxaca, December 9, 2011
It's worth bringing a spare bag on a trip to Oaxaca to bring back some of the beautiful traditional folk art still made in every local village. Linda Hanna, an American expat, offers custom tours of the craft-making villages from her folk-art themed B&B, Casa Linda, a colourful bungalow a few miles north-east of the city.
Market-Driven, Oaxaca Style, August 30, 2011
Touring Oaxaca's markets, chocolate shops and restaurants with Pilar Cabrara, chef and owner of La Olla restaurant.
Oaxaca Guelagetza Festival Highlights Indigenous Pride, July 25, 2010
An old Mexican man, with a big moustache and wearing a wide sombrero, ambles into the sunlit Benito Juarez auditorium in Oaxaca City, clutching a live, twitching turkey. Looking around for his fellow villagers, he passes rows of vividly embroidered traditional dresses, pineapples with red ribbons tied round their middles in bows, and thousands of sombreros like his own. This is the Guelaguetza.
Tuck Into Traditional Cooking Culture in Mexico, December 11, 2010
It's official: Mexican cuisine is so good Unesco has put it on its cultural heritage list. And the best place to try it is Oaxaca, the country's foodie heart
How to Fly Mexico's Budget-Friendly Skies, May 7, 2008
"While U.S. airlines have been dropping like flies (or at least grounding their planes and filing for bankruptcy), Mexico's discount airlines have been steadily adding new destinations. Rather than suffering an interminable bus ride, now you can start your vacation in Guadalajara and zip over to Cancún to end it on the beach for about $120. These new airlines crisscross Mexico, landing and taking off from more than 50 cities."
Oaxaca, Where the Cooking's Hot and Cool, October 21, 2004
"It was mid-July in Oaxaca, Mexico, and my
spirits were high. How could they not be? The air was refreshingly
cool, the mountain view from the kitchen was beautiful, and I'd
just prepared the best chocolate dessert I'd ever made. I'd come
to Mexico's Etla Valley for a five-day cooking course taught by
Susana Trilling, an American chef who's made her base in Oaxaca
On Oaxaca Coast, Sea Turtles Rally to Escape Oblivion, October 14, 2004
"Fernando Herrera is 78 years old and a fisherman by trade. He can remember a time in the 1980's when he and other fishermen of Oaxaca hunted the sea turtles that nest here for their skins, killing them with machetes and rifles. Yet he acknowledged tearing up when he arrived at the misty beach on a recent afternoon with his wife and son to witness one of nature's most mysterious and prehistoric rites: thousands of female turtles emerging from the grayish blue water of the Pacific, dragging themselves up beyond the high-tide mark and laying their eggs."
Grasshoppers with Mescal in Oaxaca, September 5, 2004
"Oaxaca is famous as the "land of seven moles" - the complex chili sauce sometimes incorporating chocolate, nuts or toasted seeds and spices that change the flavors and the colors from amarillo (yellow) to negro (black) - and I love them. But there is so much more to the region's food, from the common use of grasshoppers and maguey worms to the fine coffee and chocolate raised in the highlands to the mescal, the smoky cousin of tequila that has vastly improved since I visited a decade ago."
Mexican Mezcal Battles Nasty Firewater Image, August 18, 2004
"Mezcal, the poor cousin of Mexico's national tipple tequila,
often comes with a dead worm, or even several dead worms, on the
bottom of the bottle. The worms are mostly decorative but also signal
that it's not a drink for the fainthearted."
In Oaxaca, a Cook Creates a Stir, August 14, 2002
"The people of this colonial city are particularly opinionated when it comes to mole. With good reason. Mole is as much a part of Oaxacan culture as the architecture of the pre-Columbian hilltop city of Monte Albán. Ancient friezes show people preparing and eating mole, a chili-based dish that is the centerpiece of many a feast."